We're talking about cleaning and lubricating your bike. This isn't rocket surgery, and requires little in the way of special "stuff." The only thing you will need is bike chain lube (no 10w30, WD-40, 3-in-1 or EVOO). More on that below, but first we need to clean the bike and chain. The chain should always be re-lubricated after degreasing it.
Here is a short video to show the basics. I'll have some comments after the video.
Another short video about doing a "waterless" bike wash, and also some good information on cleaning and lubing under the bottom bracket.
I don't see why you couldn't do a "waterless" wash with the wheels on the bike, and use diluted Simple Green (or similar) rather than "bike wash."
I have a Park Chain Cleaner, but only use it a couple times per year Unless you're riding a mountain bike in the mud, you can get by with degreaser, a rag and maybe a toothbrush. I do like the Finish Line Grunge Brush for chain, cassette and chainring cleaning though. If you are going to buy only one, I would get the brush for half the cost of the chain cleaner.
I use a little car wash soap in a bucket of water to wash bikes, but you can use dish soap or a little Simple Green. I use citrus degreaser or diluted Simple Green (50/50) for chains and derailleurs. I rinse with the hose, or more often with just a spray bottle with water. I dry with a microfiber towel, but dry with whatever clean rag you have on hand.
I prefer a soft brush or sponge for cleaning the fame and wheels and a stiffer brush for derailleurs, pedals, tires and wheel hubs. A bottle brush or toothbrush is good for getting into tight spaces in derailleurs, etc.
As part of my winter maintenance program, I apply a couple of coats of car wax to the bikes. This helps to make cleaning them easier, but surely isn't necessary. (I'm retired and have time for this stuff.) Also it doesn't hurt to put a little auto detail spray (or even furniture polish) on the frame after a wash and dry.
One of the issues we have in the summer is that the crushed stone part of the canal path can get pretty dusty. If you ride in dusty conditions, one of these can be really handy to have. A quick once-over and the bikes look good as new.
Once the bike is clean, you'll need to lube the chain. It's also a good idea to periodically lube the pivot points on the brakes and derailleurs, but for now we'll just deal with the chain.
Choosing a bike chain lube can be a contentious issue. Everyone has their favorite, and many will tell you why yours is no good. It doesn't have to be this way. You can't go wrong with a good dry chain lube like Finish Line Dry or ProGold ProLink. Either can also be used as a general bike lube for brakes, derailleurs, etc.
Clean Ride is also a popular chain lube that we have successfully used for years in our dusty conditions, but the others are better general purpose lubes and you only have to buy one. The "precision oiler" is for applying ProLink to pivot points. Rather than buying one with oil from ProGold for $8, I got two empty ones for $10 through Amazon.
When oiling the chain you want to get the lube into the rollers. Any excess lube on the outside of the chain plates will only serve to attract grime to later be deposited on your leg or clothes.
I always use the "fastidious" method (I'm retired) rather than the "quick and dirty" method because I think it is "dirtier" and you use more lube than needed. I also don't like spray lubes because I think they are messy and wasteful. If you don't have a master link, mark one of the chain links with a Sharpie so you can tell when you have lubed all the links. You should lube your chain: (1) after cleaning it, (2) if you ride in the rain, (3) if it starts squeaking, (4) if it looks rusty or (5) about every 200 miles or so.
You may have noticed that most of these videos have the bikes in a repair stand, which is nice to have even for just washing a bike. The bike won't fall over and you can easily work on both sides. Also, in order to do any derailleur adjustments you'll need to get the rear wheel off the ground. However, a good entry level repair stand like the Park PCS-9 or the Feedback Sports Recreational will set you back over $125. I've had an earlier version of a Feedback Sports stand (from before they acquired Ultimate) for more than 10 years and it is still going strong.
For light duty and occasional use, this $20 stand looks like it may be a good alternative. You may be able to use a car bike rack (depending on the design) or a trainer stand if you have them. Or if you are handy, there are several DIY bike stand projects at Instructables including mounting a car rack on the wall.
And finally, if you are really (not) serious about cleaning your chain, be sure to check out the ShelBroCo System from the late great Sheldon Brown.
Keep Moving
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